London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2023 (opens in new tab) is officially over, and team Marie Claire has been busy covering all of the fashion and beauty looks over on our Instagram (opens in new tab) account. And besides covering all of the fabulous fashion looks and trends, we’ve also spent the past few days running between different backstage areas and refreshing our image banks in a bid to dissect the biggest make-up trends (opens in new tab) of the upcoming season.
As a beauty writer and a self-confessed beauty obsessive, as much as the clothes were a delight, I’m always the person staring up at the models’ faces as they take to the catwalk—and I want to know everything about the beauty looks.
And if there’s one thing I can say for certain, it’s that heavy make-up is back for Autumn/Winter 2023. While we’ve already been seeing fuller make-up looks trending on TikTok, if London Fashion Week has confirmed anything, it’s that heavy eyes, teamed with glowing skin is set to be the beauty trend of 2023.
More specifically, the trend we saw in every backstage beauty room was dark everything. From dark lips to heavily kohled eyes, we’re dubbing this make-up look ‘goth glow’.
A trend for gothic make-up started bubbling away last year when Wednesday Addams’ gothic make-up (opens in new tab) went viral for all of the right reasons. This season at London Fashion Week, it was clear that the Wednesday effect was in full force.
In fact, goth glow was seen pretty much everywhere at London Fashion Week, and it couldn’t be ignored. Unlike gothic make-up looks of yesteryear, this season it’s all about making the trend as wearable as possible by teaming bold, dark and heavy eyes with beautifully radiant and glowing skin.
Not yet sold? Keep scrolling for all of the goth glow make-up inspiration that I’m absolutely sure will convince you otherwise from backstage at London Fashion Week.
“Grungy makeup is back across the board”, says Paul Costelloe’s lead make-up artist, Michelle Webb. From New York Fashion Week to London shows, the goth glow look saw make-up artists adorning their models with a Wednesday-esque gothic and grungy, bold eye and glowing, glass skin.
Webb created the perfect glow by mixing Huda Beauty #FauxFilter Skin Finish Foundation Stick (opens in new tab) with OLEHENRIKSEN Hydrabarrier Nourishing Face Oil. (opens in new tab)
For autumn/winter 2023, Erdem Moralıoğlu teamed up with Nars make-up artist, Jane Richardson, to create the ultimate melancholic make-up look to accompany his collection. After discovering his London townhouse was once inhabited by ‘friendless’ women seeking refuge in the 1800s, Moralıoğlu reimagines the historic story of one particular night that saw two of the women locked out beyond curfew, causing them to wreak havoc in Bloomsbury square. The heavily kohled eyes were softly diffused at the edges and teamed with lit-from-within skin to create an impressively wearable look.
Proving that gothic looks don’t have to be all black liner and deep purples, Charlotte Tilbury make-up artist, Sofia Tilbury, created this look for Harris Reed. With supercharged highlight and popping red lip, it remains gothic without feeding into any of the more obvious tropes.
Goth glow was in full force at Fashion East. Here, glowy skin is paired with a dark lip or a very heavy dark eyeliner. By the time it gets to winter, I’m pretty sure I’ll be combining the two looks together.
The epitome of goth glow, a softer, more wearable look on the eye and an unmatched glow was showcased at Nensi Dojaka. It looks like we will all be ditching the powder when it comes to autumn.
This served some serious lip inspo. The deep-red, ombré lip is throwing things back to the ’90s.
Bora Aksu’s AW23 show was inspired by Wednesday Addams, and it shows not only in his designs but also in the black lipstick choice.
I tried the KVD black lipstick (opens in new tab) back when Wednesday first came onto Netflix, and it was surprisingly not as bold as I thought. Another show full of black lipstick was Mark Fast, and I’m kind of excited to try it again this winter.
At Feben, all the models wore heavily waterlined eyeliner, creating a winged look that went down from the inner eye too. This is bold, and I love it.
I’m kind of obsessed with these false lower lashes. The lip has a just-bitten, purple stand, keeping in with the goth trend.
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